The name of Upper Bavaria (Oberbayern), Munich's own traditional province, is associated above all with the Alps. Quite simply, this is the most spectacular scenery Germany has to offer, a wonderfully contrasting array of glacial lakes and peaks commanding stunning panoramic views, with many dramatic castles and churches thrown in for good measure. Amid this picture-book scenery you'll find the Bavarian folklore and customs that are the subject of so many tourist brochures: men still wear Lederhosen and checked shirts, and women the traditional Dirndl dresses. Superficially it can all seem very kitsch, but beyond the packaged culture lies a fascinating mixture of Catholic and pagan rites that dominate the annual calendar - events usually accompanied by large amounts of eating and drinking.

 

Head for Oberammergau where the world-famous Passion Play is staged every ten years. From here it's only a few kilometres to the international ski resort of Garmisch-Partenkirchen , above which towers the Zugspitze , Germany's highest and most famous peak. The most dramatic heights of all are in the Berchtesgadener Land, an area that includes the town of Berchtesgaden as well as the marvellous peak of the Watzmann . The area is intensely geared towards tourism, as are the Upper Bavarian lakes , most of which lie in the glacial valleys of the Alpine foothills.

In contrast, other parts of the province are relatively little known, yet offer plenty of varied attractions. Between the Alps and the capital lie some equally enticing lakes and monasteries; to the east are the valleys of the Inn and Salzach rivers with the pilgrimage site of Altötting and the medieval towns of Wasserburg and Burghausen ; while north of Munich are several wonderful old towns, most notable of which are the old metropolitan see of Freising , the former university and ducal capital of Ingolstadt , the planned residential seat of Neuburg and the little cathedral city of Eichstätt .

As if the scenery wasn't enough, manifold culinary delights are available in the wonderful old Gaststätten, often with beer gardens, where traditional Bavarian menus and innumerable regional beers are served. There are rail links to many destinations, and a network of connecting bus services between the Alpine towns, the only snag being that some of these only operate once or twice a day. Accommodation shouldn't be a major problem, except during July and August in the most sought-after destinations. There's a huge choice of rooms in private houses (identified by the Zimmer frei signs; contact the local tourist office if you want to make an advance booking) where prices are surprisingly reasonable (less than DM60/¬30-DM99/¬49) - even in major resorts such as Garmisch. Youth hostels (for the under-27s) and campsites are also plentiful.