Beer halls and beer gardens
The beer cellar (Bierkeller) and beer garden (Biergarten) are Munich's most characteristic institutions. Generally speaking the former are roomy halls (rather than cellars); often standing in leafy gardens, they serve strong, heady beer produced in a local brewery, plus hearty traditional Bavarian food. Although a few have become tainted by excessive tourism, they remain an essential and unmissable feature of the city.

Munich's beer culture
Munich's beer halls have their origins in the Middle Ages, when brewers stored barrels indoors, planting chestnut trees around their premises to shade them from the heat of the sun. These days beer gardens remain popular with natives and visitors alike, really coming into their own in summer when tables and chairs are set up in the open. Beer is served in litre Mass measures, and the enduring image is that of the traditionally clad waitress sailing from table to table clutching several enormous, foaming glasses in each hand while the resident brass band plays a seemingly endless succession of oompah tunes. Many beer gardens serve up roasted half-chickens (always well salted to ensure a healthy customer thirst) with side orders of potato salad or French fries, while some have more extensive menus, and others allow you to bring your own food.

Munich ranks as the third largest producer of beer in the world, and it can legitimately claim to be both the most influential and the most varied in output: it pioneered wheat-based and brown-coloured beers, and adapted the original Bock of Einbeck to the form in which it's generally known today. The largest of the local breweries is Paulaner , which produces a full range of styles, generally with a drier flavour than those of its competitors; the dark and extremely powerful Salvator-Doppelbock is its star product. Paulaner has taken over Hacker-Pschorr (two formerly separate breweries which later united), whose product lines include an amber-coloured Märzen and Pschorr-Weisse , a very pale wheat beer. Löwenbräu , better known abroad through being a bigger exporter, produces a similarly wide variety of generally maltier beers, among which the Pils enjoys the highest reputation. Though it continues to operate as a separate entity, Löwenbräu is now owned by its erstwhile rival Spaten , which has the best amber and black beers - known respectively as Ur-Märzen and Ludwig-Thoma-Dunkel - but is equally known for its Franziskaner Weissbier (available in both light and dark versions) and Maibock . Hofbräu , the oldest of the breweries, makes the classic Maibock plus a number of contrasting wheat beers, though its standard line is an Export . The main strength of Augustiner is its pale ( Hell ) beer, but it produces several prestigious dark brews as well.

Hausbrauereien
Predictably, Munich has played a pioneering role in the current craze for new Hausbrauereien, which represent a return to traditional methods by having a boutique brewery in or alongside the bar-restaurant where it is served, thereby ensuring the utmost freshness.

Braustübl der Forschungsbrauerei , Unterhachinger Str. 76, Altperlach. In a southeastern suburban setting with a garden, producing a fine dark beer, plus a Bock and a Pils . Reached by U-Bahn #8 or S-Bahn #2; closed Mon & mid-Oct to mid-March.

Flieger-Bräu , Sonnenstr. 2, Feldkirchen. In an eastern suburb, reached by S-Bahn #6, this is a sister establishment of the better-known Isar-Bräu.

Isar-Bräu , Kreuzeckstr. 23, Grosshesselohe. Located within the Grosshesselohe Isartalbahnhof on S-Bahn line #7, it makes a Weissbier and a dark Spezial , and also serves the products of its parent, the out-of-town Hofbräuhaus Traunstein.

Paulaner Bräuhaus , Kapuzinerplatz 5. Paulaner have opened this in the old Thomasbräu, whose name lives on in its non-alcoholic beer. Very trendy, particularly on Thurs, the day the new Weissbier is brewed.

Unionsbräu , Einsteinstr. 42, Haidhausen. The cellar has huge communal benches where you sit to sip the fine Helles made on the premises.

Restaurants
Munich has a wide selection of restaurants , and plenty of places offer good food at reasonable prices. As well as a good choice of ethnic eateries and several vegetarian specialists, there are many traditional Gaststätten which serve traditional Bavarian fare in a more intimate atmosphere than that of the beer halls.

Bars and café-bars
Much of the city's social life revolves around its bars and café-bars. Beer , coffee and snacks are served in most places, and while the roll-call of "in" and "out" bars is ever-changing, the ones we've listed are of proven worth. Schickies hang out in Schwabing and hipsters head for Haidhausen , though things are pretty provincial in both areas. The city's bars suffer from limiting licensing laws (midnight closing at most places).

Traditional cafés
Munich is no longer so well served by traditional Kaffee und Küchen establishments as most other large German cities, but some recommendable places do survive.

Café Frischhut , Prälat-Zeistl-Str. 8. A true original, popular with the local market traders and best known for the Schmalznudel , a deep-fried doughnut which can be eaten plain or sprinkled with sugar. Open Mon-Sat 5am-5pm.

Café Kreuzkamm , Maffeistr. 4. Delicious cakes, sweets and chocolates make this one of the best cafés in town. Closed Sun.

Café Luitpold , Brienner Str. 11. Still an extremely elegant café, despite losing its sumptuous neo-Rococo decoration during the war, save for a couple of huge statues now in the Bayerisches Nationalmuseum. It offers all-day breakfasts and also serves light meals. Closed Sun.

Café Monopteros , Königinstr. 43. Situated on the edge of the Englischer Garten, this offers hot daily specials, as well as a large choice of cakes from its own bakery.

Café Rottenhöfer , Residenzstr. 25-26. Founded in 1825, this is the café of the former court confectioners which makes a wonderful range of cakes and chocolates.

Café Schneller , Amalienstr. 59, Schwabing. A university location makes this popular with students rather than the antique lady contingent. It closes for the weekend at 2pm on Sat.

Wine bars
There's a limited choice of wine bars in this beer haven, though a wide geographical choice of vintages is on offer, particularly when the Ratskeller is added to those listed below.

Café Nymphenburg Sekt , Am Viktualienmarkt. Located alongside the fountain dedicated to Karl Valentin, this is a good place to sample Munich's own sparkling wine.

Pfälzer Weinprobierstuben , Residenzstr. 1. Wines and food from the Rhineland are served in a pleasant atmosphere in this wine bar in the Residenz.

Rolandseck , Viktoriastr. 23, Schwabing. This place has the best selection of Baden wines in town.

Weinhaus Neuner , Herzogspitalstr. 8. Nineteenth-century wine bar known for its gourmet food.

Weintrödler , Brienner Str. 10. This place is open daily 5pm-6am, and consequently tends to get packed in the early hours, when everywhere else is closed.